Welcome to The Afterglow by Cosmo beauty editor Beth Gillette. In her new column, Beth explores the relationships between beauty, queerness, and modern dating through a zillennial lens. đ
For most of my adult life, I wouldnât dare wear a sweet perfume. The fragrance family felt childish, basic, and lowbrow, which was entirely out of line with the sophisticated beauty editor persona I was creating for myself. Instead, I reached for more complex scents filled with woodsy and earthy notes (Santal 33, anyone?). But in 2025, I donât think Iâve worn a single perfume that didnât include a vanilla, cherry, or whipped cream note, or a combo of all three (my dream). And Iâm not the only one whoâs had a change of heart.
Vanilla perfumes are dominating the fast-growing fragrance category, especially among Gen Z and zillennials, with search volume rising by 16.5 percent in 2024. âGourmand fragranceââwhich is really just a fancy word for sweet, dessert-like scentsâsearches are up 122 percent year-over-year on Google and 193 percent year-over-year on TikTok.
So what the hell is going on? And how did we get here? From clowning on Bath and Body Works Warm Vanilla Sugar to drowning ourselves in all the same notes? Well, I have a theory, and itâs related to our love lives...or lack thereof. In a world plagued by online dating fails, 20-somethings like myself are yearning for in-person connections. But meeting someone IRL comes with its own unique struggles, which is where smelling like sweet, sugary nostalgia comes into play.
I joined Tinder as a fresh 18-year-old. The thought of meeting hot people from the convenience of my bed (or legit anywhere in the world) seemed much easier than the way my parents described their dating experiences of yore. But itâs now a decade later, and the vibes are off. âPeople are more fatigued than ever by dating apps,â says Carleigh Ferrante, dating expert and host of the Mostly Dating podcast. âMost of my community on Mostly Dating are frustrated by the entire experience, and if they are using the apps at all, theyâre certainly not using them intentionallyâitâs more out of a feeling of necessity, boredom, or routine. People want something more authentic than they believe the dating apps can provide,â Ferrante says.
I spritzed on my current emotional support gourmand and I suddenly felt a bit more at ease.
Not to mention, dating apps have become synonymous with a messy era of relationships fueled by situationships and casual unseriousness. âOn apps, it definitely feels like thereâs a missing element of human connectionâwhich is ironic since connecting people is their goal,â says Aaron, a single and serial dater based in New York. âI do miss meeting people in person without the help of a phone, but that happens so rarely,â he adds.
A few months ago, when I saw someone hot on TikTok, I didnât spend hours swiping in search of their profile to matchâI just rallied my friends to go to their comedy show to see if theyâd, IDK, fall in love with me on the spot. (They didnât. Shocking.) I even followed a cute girl to the bathroom at a party recently to introduce myself (nonchalant!). Basically, I'm looking for my in-person meet-cute but as a 28-year-old whoâs never dated sans apps, putting myself out there without the protection of a screen is uncomfortable and intimidating. Sweet perfumes can help though...and in more ways than one.
Recently, Carolina Herrera Good Girlâa warm scent with vanilla, coffee, almond, praline, and cinnamon notesâsurpassed classic, fresh Chanel Chance as the worldâs best-selling womenâs perfume. Its social media fame is largely to thank, as itâs topped lists on TikTok like âPerfumes that make men go crazyâ with 1.3 million views and âsexy fragrancesâ with 3.3 million views. Sweet scents like this are linked to pleasure and sensuality, says DSM-Firmenich principal perfumer Nicole Mancini. Hence why it feels so aphrodisiacal, regardless of gender.
Whatâs more flirtatious than telling someone they smell good?
Nearly everyone I talked to for this story agrees with sweet gourmands being a universal love language. âPerfume can be divisive, but itâs good at making an impression, and Iâve found sweet ones do it best,â says Cosmopolitan associate sex and relationships editor and Sex at 27 columnist Kayla Kibbe. On a first date, Cosmopolitan beauty contributor and dating writer Mary Honkus often chooses gourmands because they have a cozy, inviting aura and might make her smell memorable. Fragrance content creator Emelia OâToole, who goes by Professor Perfume on Instagram and TikTok, also notes that sweet smells are pretty mass-appealing, meaning theyâre the most likely to garner compliments. And whatâs more flirtatious than telling someone they smell good?
Beyond sex appeal, sweet scents offer personal comfort tooâsomething weâre all obviously craving in the era of ~unprecedented dating times~. âAll these vanilla, chocolate, caramel, and whipped cream notes take me back to when I felt the most carefree in childhoodâŠwhen anxiety didnât exist and I could make friends and connections with anyone I crossed paths with,â says Honkus. When dating seems so shallow and disconnected, we can look toward the sugary, enveloping solace of a gourmand fragrance. Itâs almost like they can be worn as a âpersonal talisman of protectionâ or âan olfactory security blanket,â says fragrance expert Sable Yong, author of Die Hot With a Vengeance and cohost of the Smell Ya Later podcast.
I went to my first queer party last weekend since I came out as a lesbianâalbeit terrified, riddled with insecurity and anxiety. But I spritzed on a whole lotta Dave by Henry Rose, my current emotional support gourmand that smells like a creamy almond vanilla latte, and I suddenly felt a bit more at ease. âYou smell so great, by the way,â says the girl I nervously stood next to at the bar. This time, I let the vanilla do the work for meâalthough I realize that at some point the notes will fade and Iâll have to find my confidence and put in the work.
Just like a swipe on an app, a spritz or sniff isnât a shoo-in for marriage. But if smelling like a delectable sweet treat is what gets me out the door to a lesbian party in the first place, then so be it. For now, Iâll probably continue wearing my sweet perfume every time I hit up the lesbian bar (New Yorkers, see ya at The Bush) in hopes that someone is drawn to me. My warm, cozy smell can waft through the room, holding my hand as I do the talking. Perhaps Iâll start with, âYou smell really good, by the way.â
Shop my favorite gourmands for a date:
Beth Gillette
Beth Gillette is the beauty editor at Cosmopolitan, where she covers skincare, makeup, hair, nails, and more across digital and print. She can generally be found in bright eyeshadow furiously typing her latest feature or hemming and hawing about a new product you "have to try." Prior to Cosmopolitan, she wrote and edited beauty content as an Editor at The Everygirl for four years. Follow her on Instagram for makeup selfies and a new hair 'do every few months.